Make This Trendy Double-Crop Raglan Sweater — Free Crochet Pattern (XS/S)
This free crochet pattern guides you through making a cozy, textured double-crop raglan sweater worked top-to-bottom in joined rounds. The design combines basic double crochet with front- and back-post double crochet ribbing for a fitted waist and cuffs and a flattering raglan shape. The pattern below includes materials, stitch key, and step-by-step instructions for size XS/S — perfect for crocheters comfortable with double crochet and post stitches.

Finished double-crop raglan sweater showcasing the double crochet texture, raglan shaping and ribbed cuffs/waist.
Diving into the Double Crochet Stitch
At the heart of this sweater pattern is the double crochet stitch. This stitch is one of the foundational techniques in crochet, known for its versatility and the beautiful texture it imparts.
How to Make the Double Crochet Stitch
- Yarn over (wrap the yarn over your hook).
- Insert your hook into the desired stitch.
- Yarn over again and pull up a loop. You should now have three loops on your hook.
- Yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook.
- Yarn over one last time and pull through the remaining two loops. Voila! You’ve completed a double crochet.
Front and Back Post Double Crochet: The Secret to Perfect Ribbing
Ribbing adds a professional touch to garments, giving them structure and elasticity. In crochet, one of the most effective ways to achieve ribbing is by using the front post and back post double crochet stitches.
How to Make the Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC):
- Yarn over.
- Instead of inserting your hook into the top of the stitch, you’ll insert it from front to back around the post of the stitch from the previous row.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop.
- Complete as you would a regular double crochet.
How to Make the Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC):
- Yarn over.
- Insert your hook from the back to the front around the post of the stitch from the previous row.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop. Finish off as a standard double crochet.
Introducing: The Double Crochet Crop Raglan Sweater Pattern
This sweater, with its cropped design and puffy sleeves, is a blend of contemporary fashion and classic crochet techniques. The ribbing on the waist and cuffs, achieved using the FPDC and BPDC stitches, ensures a snug fit while adding a touch of sophistication. The pattern below is written for size XS/S; materials list includes yardage for larger sizes as reference.
Materials
- YARN: DROPS LOVES YOU 7, color 28, yarn group A (23 – 26 stitches) / 5 ply / sport
- Size XS/S: 550 g / 19.5 oz, 1870 m / 2050 yds
- Size M/L: 650 g / 23 oz, 2210 m / 2420 yds
- Size XL/2XL: 700 g / 25 oz, 2380 m / 2610 yds
- Hook: 5 mm/G-6
- Notions: yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape, stitch markers
Size: XS/S
Length (in cm): 36
Waist width (in cm): 45
Stitch Key (US terminology)
- ch = chain
- yo = yarn over
- st = stitch
- sts = stitches
- sl st = slip stitch
- sl sts = slip stitches
- sl st flo = slip stitch in front loop only
- dc = double crochet
- 2 dc = 2 double crochet stitches in one stitch (V stitch)
- dc2tog = double crochet two stitches together
- fpdc = front post double crochet
- bpdc = back post double crochet
- sp = space
Specialty Stitch & Technique Key: None.
Notes
- Work with 2 strands of yarn throughout unless otherwise noted.
- Foundation chain counts as row 1.
- You will start working around the neck in joined rounds (raglan style, one piece, no sewing), leaving the holes for the sleeves/armholes, then work the body and finish with the sleeves.
- The sweater is crocheted from top to bottom.
- Ch 2 doesn’t count as a stitch where noted.
Instructions
Yoke
Round 1: Fdc 99, join: yarn over, insert hook in the two loops on the bottom of the previous fdc (as you would want to make another fdc), insert hook into the 1st chain that you made with 1st fdc, yarn over and pull through both chains (the beginning and the end of the foundation chain), you have 3 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (you just made another fdc). Sl st in the first fdc.
Round 2: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc, ch 1), work 1 dc in the same st (V st made), 1 dc in each of the next 19 sts (back), 1 V st in the next st, 1 dc in each of the next 29 sts (sleeve), 1 V st in the next st, 1 dc in the next 19 sts (front), 1 V st in the next st, 1 dc in the next 29 sts (sleeve), sl st in the 2nd ch of starting ch 3, sl st into ch 1 sp.
Rounds 3 – 8: Ch 3, work 1 dc in ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, sl st in the 2nd ch of starting ch 3, sl st into ch 1 sp.
Round 9: ch 3, work 1 dc in ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of the next sts, sl st in the 2nd ch of starting ch 3, sl st into ch 1 sp.
Rounds 10 – 20: Ch 3, work 1 dc in ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, sl st in the 2nd ch of starting ch 3, sl st into ch 1 sp.
Separate Body and Sleeves
Body
Round 1: ch 2 (doesn’t count as a stitch), work dc across to the 1st ch 1 sp, yo, insert hook into the ch 1 sp, skip over the sleeve section to the next ch 1 sp, insert hook, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook (you just made a double crochet). Work double crochet across to the next ch 1 sp, yo, insert hook into the ch 1 sp, skip over the sleeve section to the next ch 1 sp, insert hook, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook (you just made a double crochet). Sl st in the 1st dc of the round to join.
Round 2: ch 2, dc into the 1st and across. Sl st into the 1st st to join.
Band
Round 1: ch 2, fpdc in the 1st st, *bpdc, fpdc* repeat from * to the end of the round, finishing with a bpdc. Sl st in the 1st st to join the round.
Repeat round 1 until round 8.
Round 9: ch 1 (counts as a stitch), sl st flo across. Sl st into ch 1 to join.
Finish off.
Sleeves
Round 1: Attach the yarn in the very 1st unworked stitch on the armpit.
Ch 2, dc in the same stitch and across, finishing in the very last unworked stitch. Joining the round: yo, insert the hook in the stitch where you just made the last dc, insert the hook in the stitch where you made 1st dc of this round, yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook, yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook (you just made another dc). Sl st into the 1st st to join the round.
Rounds 2 – 14: ch 2, dc across. Sl st into the 1st st to join the round.
Round 15: ch 2, dc2tog in 1st 2 sts and across. Sl st into the 1st st to join the round.
Round 16: ch 2, dc across. Sl st into the 1st st to join the round.
Sleeve band
Rounds 1 – 7: ch 2, fpdc into the 1st st, *bpdc, fpdc* repeat from * to the end of the round, finishing with a bpdc. Sl st into the 1st st to join the round.
Round 8: ch 1 (counts as a stitch), sl st flo across. Sl st into the ch 1 to join the round.
Finish off.
Repeat the instructions for the other sleeve.
Neckline
Attach the yarn in the center of the neckhole on the back, ch 1 (counts as a stitch), sl st flo across. Sl st in ch 1 to join the round.
Finish off.
Notes and finishing tips: adjust the number of rounds in the body to lengthen or shorten the sweater as desired. Follow the materials and stitch key for consistent results, and weave in ends with a yarn needle. Enjoy your finished cropped raglan sweater!